Folding Table Sample

Home Up

his is an initial assembly drawing of the product produced by the 2003/4 protech class.

This is a scanned picture of a hand drawn, combination detailed working drawing and assembly drawing. Hand drawings are fine, but can be problematic if you do not have the tools and or the flair for detail, accuracy and neatness found in a good draftsman. A CADD drawing might be a way to compensate for those who lack this flair. However, for those who find better success, thee old way, doing things by hand, and would rather not use the computer, it may be the way to go for you. It is acceptable to combine both drawings if the item isn't too complicated and you  are able to illustrate all the required information  needed to produce the product without adding confusion or compromising drafting principles. In the sample below (a poor drawing), I have highlighted a number of  areas that are common occurrences of  improper drafting practices.

A- Object lines meet, but do not exceed corners unless it is an intersection of lines. Hidden lines take over object lines when a surface is partly hidden by another part.

B- Leader lines are drawn straight, horizontal where information is located, and at an angle towards the target to where it makes contact.

C-Solid object lines are required to separate components. 

D- Two pieces the same thickness should appear the same thickness.

E- Dimensions should be drawn in a consistent form & in same position, usually horizontal. They are not confined to be between extension lines.

F- Draw the location of screw holes & indicate the size etc.

G- Dimension lines require arrow heads. 

H-There are many options for dimensioning radii, this is not one.

I - Dimension lines are best located outside the part if possible. They are straight, lighter weight than object lines, and dimension usually fits in between a broken dimension line.

J- Dimension lines should point inward with dimensions on either side.

Other common mistakes are:


Detailed Production flow:

B-1, L-1, S-1, T-1 & then D-1

The first step was to set the stop (fixture BD-1) for cutting off the legs to length on the sliding compound miter saw. Then rip off enough for 24 table, (actually ripping is the 2nd step) reset stop, and continue the same procedure for the struts, braces & tops.

B-2, L-2 & S-2

The second step had the table saw width set the same for ripping the legs, braces & struts as they came off step 1.

B-3, L-3 & S-3

The table fed the jointer operation which cleaned both edges.

B-4, L-4, S-4 & T-2
As they come off the jointer, the corners/edges are champhered by the belt sander


The edges and ends are champhered as part of this operation's responsibility.


With fixture LB-5 drill half the holes for inside brace, then insert spacer and drill outside leg braces. & S-5


Using fixture LS-5, drill 5/8 dia hole.

Using fixture TT-3 drill 1/2 the boards on the outside of both ends, then adjust & drill the inside holes on remaining half. 

Note: if not purchasing (locking) dowel pins, cut 5/16 dowels X 1 1/4 long and round one end & S-6

Draw outside raduis on one end of each piece.

T-4 up a stop and drill lock pin holes X 1" deep


L-7 &S-7
Cut radii on band saws.


Glue and insert dowels in inside drilled tops.

L-8 center 5/8 dia hole in legs using fixture LS-.


Cut 30 degree champher on both sides of leg bottoms using cut off saw and fixture BD-1.

Detailed Assembly flow:

Using fixture ASM-1, attach table struts and tops by gluing and screwing down (with1 1/2" screws) the predrilled inside table tops to a strut on either side with hole pointing out.



ASM-2  legs to the outside of inside table top assembly by running dowel handle through 5/8 dia holes and nailing (1" finish nails) through leg and dowel, with dowel flush to the leg surface. 

Inside Tabletop

ASM-4 pre drilled inside brace 5" from bottom of leg with glue and 1 1/2" gyprock screws.


Connect struts on either end of "outside drilled" table tops as in ASM-1, except no fixture needed as the struts line up on the outside edge of the tops.



Attach legs to the inside of outside table to assembly using 1 1/2" X 5/8 dia dowels and 1" finish nails. Nail through the strut and dowel. Line up inside and outside assemblies by placing 1 1/2 X 5/8 dowels through center holes. Then match out side brace  to the inside brace, and glue and screw (with 1 1/2 gyprock screws) the out side brace to the out side legs.


ASM-6 functionality of table. Make any needed adjustments. Then permanently attach center pivot dowels by nailing through the outside leg and dowel of both legs.


ASM-7 in plugs to hide screws in table tops. Drop glue into hole & tap in plug. Insure that the plugs remain slightly above table surface. 



Once the glue dries, belt sand the plugs level with the table top surface. 



Final inspection and alterations will make sure it functions properly and all surfaces are clean and smooth. If the table rocks, it will be necessary to skiff the longest leg to eliminate rocking.


Day One < Began cutting legs to length from 8" boards
            <which fed table saw for ripping to width
            < feeding jointer to smooth edges
            < then sanded off sharp corners
            < from here we drilled 5/8" hole in ends
            < drew radius end using jig
            < began cutting radius
            < finished cutting legs, began cutting table struts and they followed the leg  setups


Day Two < finished cutting struts, cut tops to length
set up 2nd drill press to drilled out side table top holes
< cut off saw set up for leg braces in time to keep feeding the table saw, jointer etc.

Day Three < finished cutting lengths of board pieces.
            < finished ripping boards
            < drilled outside table top holes
            < began sanding rounded end
            < began assembling outside table tops
            < began drilling center leg holes

Day Four < cut dowels
            <cut alignment pin holes